Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Dinosaur Mountain Mega-Traverse: The Avs Wall Problem

The weather continues to hold here along the Front Range. Yesterday we took advantage of another amazing day and went up to Dinosaur Mountain to try the Avs Wall traverse. This is an excellent wall up on one of the sandstone fins of Dinosaur Mountain. Although there are several great straight-up problems, the real gem of the wall is the entire traverse.

Bouldering on Dinosaur Mountain Flatirons Colorado
Coming in at around 80 feet long, the traverse has two pumpy sections split by a 10 move long crux. I'm not aware of anyone sending the entire traverse, but I have heard rumors that it goes at around 5.14. But who knows, the middle crux section is extremely crimpy and beta sensitive, and depending on where you place your feet it could be much easier (or harder).

There are many other good problems around. On the way up to the wall, you can always eye Jim Holloway's classic Slap Shot (V12ish ?). Also, up the slope from the wall are several good stand alone boulders in the trees, plus a couple more down and around the corner.

Dinosaur Mountain bouldering Flatirons Colorado
The Avs Wall traverse adds another long, hard sandstone problem to compliment the others found in the Flatirons: The Gutter, The Compound, and The Ghetto. Coming in as the hardest, it also sees the least amount of traffic. Perfect for a solid day of climbing in mid-winter.


  1. Posting this for the third time, since I'm not sure I followed the directions for commenting on this blog ...

    Chuck did the full Avs Wall traverse in June 2007. Called it Long Song and proposed V12 unless someone else comes forward claiming an earlier ascent. Approximately ~5.14c for those who think long traverses deserve route grades.

  2. Chuffer,

    Thanks for the info. I remember when Chuck said this and I went up there the next day to see how he did it. Couldn't see any evidence of someone working it; no chalk, tick marks, etc. I would be very interested in learning what sequence he used, especially for the crux middle section. Here is the sequence I used: Avs Wall Traverse: Dinosaur Mountain. I would agree with the grade though.