Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Classic Flatiron Bouldering Problems: New Gems on Old Stone

Last week we had hiked up to the Burgundy Boulder to do some old classics and some of the newer problems on its north side. On the way up I spotted some new stuff that looked like it could go. So on Monday Tara and I hiked back up to the base of Fern Canyon to check it out. Turns out, there is some really good bouldering to be done.
V10 Bouldering Flatirons
First, there is an really cool cave/slot problem. Climbing out of the dark cave on some side pulls, you have to match on a slopper, then head right as you move out of the slot. The crux comes as you begin to move right, eventually emerging from the dark and rounding the corner of the boulder. Real cool moves and such a rare problem.
Fern Canyon V10 Bouldering
Below, there is a really nice boulder that has several hard problems on it. There is a low traverse along the bottom, angling up left to right. You can choose to do the whole traverse until the top out at the end, or shoot straight up in a couple places. Either way, nothing is easy on this boulder. The traverse goes around V10ish, and choosing to bail earlier and shoot up to the lip doesn't make the problem any easier.
Fern Canyon Traverse V10 Boulder
All in all, this little conglomeration of boulders has a bunch of real nice test pieces ranging in the V7-V11 range. Fun movements, decent landings, and impeccable stone make these boulders a real gem when one thinks of places along the Front Range. Sorry, I don't know the names, but who cares. They get done so infrequently, each time feels like a FA.
Tara bouldering traverse Flatirons Colorado


  1. Hi,

    Thanks for the good wishes about my ankle - I'll take a better look round here tomorrow.


  2. nice blog. Good info on the blocks in Fern Canyon.

  3. Thanks Kevin. Yep, the blocks at the bottom of Fern are quite stellar... and plenty more as well.

  4. Nice photos Peter. Keep up the postings.

  5. Nice Peter, good stuff. The V10 is called "Firedance." Cheers -Andy

  6. Thanks for the info on the problem Andy.

  7. mr. mann's got it right on firedance... it was done by a kid from texas? the spring after will put up "black ice"... also, i believe the line in the cave is referred to as "juju" and is given 7 or 8 depending on who you talk with. firedance, juju, and black ice are all i ever had a chance to get on up there and i was told that some of the even older lines are extremely worthy, so i'd be psyched to hear more about your findings up there!

  8. So the cave problem is called Juju. Good to know. I don't think it is 7/8 anymore... looks like a flake came off some time ago. It is really difficult to make the move from the slopey flake out to the lip... Still a real cool problem for sandstone.

  9. Great blog and pics! The information on rock climbing is really helpful for the people who are really into it.