Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Undone Boulder Problems in Eldorado Canyon State Park

With this never ending Indian Summer we are having along the Front Range, the climbing and bouldering conditions have been amazing (the telemark skiing is not so good but fun - check out A-Basin switch telemark footage). As a result, Tara and I have been exploring some areas that see little to no traffic, but have a ton of potential for new lines, new problems, new routes. Eldorado Canyon Bouldering ProblemGreen Mountain is one spot - boulders are everywhere and lines just seem to pop out. A lot have been done (check out Colorado Boulderingand Colorado Bouldering 2- the new book by Horan is controversial and should be avoided).

Boulder Problem in Eldorado Canyon
Another spot is Eldorado Canyon State Park. Again, the Musicals have been climbed on for a number of years, and so have the Metaphysicals. This is the place where Suspension of Disbelief is (V12ish) and Midnight Frightening (V11) are located. But what about other blocks? We found some amazing looking lines on our adventure. Pictures don't do justice, but here are a couple to get people psyched on the potential.

This block is amazing. Slightly overhanging with a flat landing, who could ask for more. However, the real winner is up the slope further...
Eldorado Bouldering Problem

The cave has several good lines coming out of it. A rare formation for sandstone, this block resembles something you would find in the Park more then Eldo. We worked on several problems on independent lines. There are also several potential link-ups and eliminates, depending on where you start and where you come out. Good climbing, sustained movement, and an unobstructed view of the Continental Divide.
Eldorado Bouldering Problems
And the backside is what really holds the gem. Although this photo does not do it justice, there is a clean line going straight up this slightly overhanging face. Yet to be done. Any takers?

I don't know if these boulders have "official" names. There is no evidence of chalk, the moss is thick, and if anyone has climbed on them, it was done by the ghost of Horan in the 70s.

It is exciting to know that after climbing in the Colorado Rocky Mountains for over 16 years lines like these are still to be had. Anyone care to hike...

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